Dontcha feel like...

...so many patterns, so little time!

Since I'm not sewing, I've been visiting blog land HARD!  I mean I've been reading blogs that I skimmed before or had never visited...gotta do something to fill up all that non-sewing time! *LOL*  So I noticed that there are some pattern gems out there that I've never considered before that are being sewn up into some amazing garments.

Also in that extra time, I've visited quite a few pattern sites...referred there by the same sewists, that have made those amazing garments and I have two observations.

One ~ I will never sew all of the patterns that I like. 
I have an amazing collection of patterns that I just keep adding to.  With each cycle of patterns distributed by the big four, I add another round of patterns to my collection.  I also own a dozen years of Burda World of Fashion magazines, which are finally coming out of storage in the new and improved sewing room (Did y'all notice how positive I'm being here! *LOL*) from which I need to sew more of. There is just so much pattern goodness out there now!

Two ~ Why don't the new indie pattern makers size up past a 16/18?
I know Style Arc now has plus size patterns, though I haven't bought any yet because nothing thrills me.  If I'm going to pay for shipping from across the world, I don't really want to buy a pattern that's similar to something from the Big 4. 

Lolita Patterns is working on a plus size, as well as, average size line and I will be trying them out.  I have two Cake Patterns on my list to try, too.  But I want to get in on The Archer Shirt craze too, however, the pattern only goes up to a size 18.  

So let me run down a list of several new indie pattern designers whose patterns only go up to a size 16 or 18 that I noticed in my blogland travels: Colette Patterns, Victory Patterns, Sewaholic, Megan Nielsen, Sew Chic and Jamie Christina Patterns are all graded no larger than an 18.  I have two choices here - purchase one and grade up or forego the pattern and purchase only the Big 4 and the couple of indies who do make plus size patterns mentioned above.

I'll admit that I've been loathe to blog about the lack of upsizing in the new indie patterns because I truly understand if they have an audience they want to reach and I'm not part of it.  It just really hit me this weekend while blog grazing that there are some very cool & funky styles out there that I would like to make for my daughter (age 25, same size/little bigger than me) or even a version of Megan Nielsen's Tania Culottes for myself.  Hey lengthen those culottes and they'd be part of an amazing Friday work outfit or weekend/vacation piece. (As an aside I know I don't generally sew weekend for myself but I'm thinking maybe if I did I might leave the sewing cave more...)

Anyway, I'm in awe of what some of the younger (as in younger than me) sewists are making.  I'm feeling encouraged that another generation will carry sewing on and that our artform will continue to thrive and grow.

Now I'm off to watch the second half of the NBA Finals - Heat vs. Spurs - cause who knows who's going to win this!

...as always more later!

A few thoughts...

First thanks to everyone who left a comment on the last post commiserating on my sewing room trauma.  Now that I've lived without my sewing room for a few days, I have a few thoughts to share.

1.  I thought that we'd gotten up all of the water.  However, when the plumber came back in he noticed that there was water under the flooring that I laid less than 2 years ago.  It squished when he walked on it and explained that's why the floor was so cold to my touch.  That's what initiated the great fabric pack up and the items being removed from the sewing room.

2.  It took me and my daughter (the same one that helped me lay the floor) 4 hours to remove every piece of fabric from the sewing room, as well as, my sewing machines, computer and TV.  I only had the evening to do it because the team was bringing in the fans and dehumidifers to dry out the room the next morning. They also treated the walls for mold at the same time.

3.  I had to do it in 4 hours because we are in the midst of some really important meetings at work and I couldn't take any time off.  Let me tell you I was bleary eyed the next morning because I got EXACTLY 4 hours of sleep that night.

4.  Why are insurance companies such pains in the *sses.  That's all I'm saying about the trauma of that which is still ongoing.

5.  As for relocating my sewing room, well that just ain't happening.  This is the only place in my home for it so I now have to figure out a way to secure it so that it doesn't happen again ~ at least for awhile!  Although, I've heard enough water horror stories at work this week to realize that nowhere is actually safe.  People who's apartments were flooded by pipes bursting in neighbors apartments, toilets overflowing in another person's home causing extensive water damage cause it happened while they were at work, etc.  It seemed like everyone had a tale to share.  So since this could have happened somewhere else in the house, not just the basement, the sewing room is being set back up once everything is repaired.

6.  For now I'm trying to be positive and think about how I can change the arrangement of the room, once I'm allowed back in.  Recently I'd been thinking that I needed to add more storage to the room to aid & abet my fabric addiction.  Now that I've cleaned almost everything out of the room, I'm going to be a lot more selective about what I put back in.  Don't get excited, all of the fabric is going back in!  *LOL*  I mean some of the other things that I'd never removed because I'd been to lazy to take them out...well that problem has been solved for me...and they won't be returning.

7.  Taking my things out of my sewing room made me realize that I have a small fortune invested in that room.  I've once again instructed my daughter that they are NOT to have a garage sale when I've passed on but to eBay that stuff and recoup some of the money! *LOL*

8.  I did get my computer set up in the dining room and if I play my iTunes Library loudly I can ALMOST drown out the sounds of the fans and dehumidifers in the basement!

9.  I realize that except for social engagements or a dinner/movie with friends, I generally spend my weekends in the sewing room.  It's a great de-stressor for my very busy workweeks.  Thank goodness I do have some plans for Saturday evening this weekend because otherwise I would have been lost and not known what to do with my weekend!

So that's my latest update.  I'm trying to be positive about this because everything happens for a reason and even if it was just to get me to clean out the sewing room and do a reorg, I will go with it...especially since no fabric or sewing machines were hurt in this process! *smile*

...as always more later!

I'm Bereft...

Again the pictures will speak because I have no words to describe how hollow my heart is because my sewing room has been totally dissembled...due to water...

Starting to pack the fabric up...

It's all gone now...

Taken early this morning - my sewing room now lives in the garage

I will update when I can...

What the storm has wrought...

It rained yesterday...all day. Noah's Ark epic kinda rain...all day and into the wee hours of this morning.

I had to work late and was extremely worried that I wouldn't be able to get out of New York City because of the epic Noah's Ark type rain.  No where in my thinking did I worry about the sewing workroom nestled in the basement of my home.  I mean I just had the plumber in to talk about adding a battery operated sump pump to the sump pump that's already in place.  He looked at the present sump pump and declared that it was fine.

So why did I hear a beep from said workroom after midnight when I was in the kitchen getting one last glass of the nectar of the gods...Mountain Dew.  I go to the steps turn on the light, hoping & praying that I wouldn't see water...and I didn't. With a sign of relief, I head downstairs to see what was beeping and then I see it.  Yeap, one of the few paper boxes on the floor has a 2" water line.

Dayum, the Noah's Ark epic rain had infiltrated the workroom.  So I go into the storage space where my furnace and hot water heater are located and the sump pump is full of water, as well as, water covering the floor.  I CAN NOT figure out why it isn't working...lean over to make sure it's plugged in.  Dayum, Dayum and double dayum...the plug is out slightly...push it in and the sump pump roars to life.

Luckily I made it downstairs before there was any serious damage done to the fabric collection or even a lot of water in the workroom.  Instead it took two hours to get the water mopped up and items removed.  Today started off with a trip to Lowes to get a wet/dry vac. Then I spent time lifting everything rubber and wiping the water off the bottom of it.

You know I've called the plumber back and scheduled the installation of the battery operated sump pump...*sigh*  Yes, possible catastrophe averted but if I had any urge to sew today, its gone now.  I'll be spending the rest of the evening mopping up the last of the water that's hidden under every plastic bin on the floor, washing & drying and rehanging the covers for the fabric collection and washing & drying the couple of pieces of fabric that were in the paper boxes.

...as always more later!

Let the Photos Speak

I really have nothing to say but I do have some photos to share...so let's let the photos speak:

Someone was having an online sale of 50%

off cotton voile - I couldn't resist!

This showed up today.

Patterns from the last Club BMV pattern sale

Designer Cotton from Mood Fabrics

Large gray floral w/lime accents from Theory

Gray florals by Marc Jacobs

from Mood Fabrics

Floral linens that I pretreated on Saturday

I don't know if there will be any sewing this weekend 'cause I have a few social engagements but I do have a few ideas percolating so hopefully something soon!

...as always more later!

May 2013 End of the Month Round Up

I honestly can't believe that it's June 3rd already! This year is flying by! I'm sure some of it has to do with the fact that I'm finally happy with my job and of course you know the rest just falls into place after that. My sewing is in a really good place and I'm creating some amazing pieces.

Right now if I'm not at work, I'm in my sewing workshop and that's how I like it. I've finally reached a stage in my life where I can sew any time I want, using the best materials I can afford. I've been waiting for this time in my life since I was a teenager and fell in love with this craft.

But enough about that, this is suppose to be my monthly recap...it was a good month creatively. I added two dresses to my wardrobe.

The lace & print dress

...and the digital ponte printed dress

I also added one more trans seasonal black suit (which will probably get a lot of wear this summer!)

Finally there was the prom dress...

Yes, it was a very involved sewing month...but so full of creative goodness that I hope I can match it in the next couple of months...though I can tell you that I do have another huge project coming up at the end of the summer...more details on that later!

The only thing I didn't get a chance to make this month was a couple of outfits for my granddaughter.  I'm chomping at the bit to make something for my little cutie...hopefully soon!


...as always more later!

The Reveal...

If you haven't already slid over to the Mood Sewing Network to look at my niece's prom dress...it's below.  And if you have already viewed the pics and write up there, I've added some additional information below...

I've made a few prom dresses over the years.  Generally I shy away from this type of sewing because of the high expectations for the dress. I don't want to dash someone's dreams. However, every once in awhile someone special to me asks if I will make a dress for them...usually I end up agreeing. This year it was my niece.

First some information on the materials used to make the dress...

Pattern ~
Butterick 4343

Fabric ~
4 yards of 45" wide mint green silk crepe back satin from Mood Fabrics
3 yards of 60" peach polyester lining from Mood Fabrics
4 yards of 14" mint green embellished lace trim from Mood Fabrics

Notions ~
22" bone color invisible zipper cut down to 14"
Taupe colored lace from the notions stash
Silk organza for the bodice

Construction Techniques:
I covered a lot of the construction details in these posts...along with the drama of the fitting challenges.  However, there were a few things I wanted to highlight about the making of this dress.

Even though the lace is stitched onto the fashion fabric in the bodice area, there is a silk organza underlining basted to the fashion fabric to give the silk body and to hold all of those hand stitches without crumpling.

The sleeve was made by cutting it out in silk organza and then the lace was stitched to it.  It was made longer than the sleeve I stole from another pattern because my niece wanted the pointed sleeve hem with thread chain that's used in bridal dresses, as part of her dress.

After I tore the dress apart to give her more room in the bodice area, I also added a silk organza gusset to the sleeve in the under arm area. I did this so that it would fit the dress' armhole that now had it's own 2.5" gusset.

I added my signature lace trim embellishment to the lining.  It seemed to add a really nice dimension to the dress.  

But I have to tell you that I did machine stitch the lining to the fashion fabric at the front slit.  I really wanted this area to hold together and I was worried that my hand stitching might pop with the getting in and out of the party bus (yes limos are passe, a party bus is how they get to the prom now!!)

I cut the zipper down to 14" because I wanted the dress to open up so that she could get into it but I didn't want an unsightly zipper ALL the way down the side of the dress.

The sleeve hem and thread piece was totally improvised.  I really meant to get back to the garment district to purchase an actual bridal accessory piece for this. I never made it...work was just too hectic.  So I improvised by making my own thread chain and stitching over it. It's just okay but it works because by the time I got to this last thing, I was so done with the dress.

Finally there is a lot of hand stitching in this dress.  Not only did I hand stitch the lace trim to the dress and the sleeve but I also hand stitched the lining into the dress.  Mostly because the pearl and sequin embellishments in the lace made stitching it in by machine a nightmare.  After a couple of broken pearls and broken needles, I realized that the only way I was going to successfully get the lining into the dress was by hand.

+ + + +

A few more pictures of my niece wearing the dress at the piers in her home town prior to heading off to the prom...

This is my favorite picture from the photo shoot...

Isn't she just beautiful in this pic?!  Her hair was done by my daughter, who spent the day with her and is responsible for the great pictures!  Now you see why my daughter takes all of my pictures, she has such a great eye! And my niece's make-up was done by her sister.  It truly was a family affair with her sisters in and out of her parents house all day, as well as aunts & uncles and friends.  I was sent texts all day long with updates!

She sent me a note on Saturday morning to thank me for the dress...
"I had a good time Auntie and I absolutely loved my dress!  I can't thank you enough for the amazing job you did on it!  I love you!!"  See isn't she just precious!  Yeah, I think I'd make that wedding gown for her in the future! *LOL*

I'm so thrilled that the dress turned out well.  It was worth the drama and the sweat & tears...

...as always more later!

Guest Blogging and things...

Karen, who authors the blog, Did You Make That, as well as belonging to The Guardian UK's Fashion Bloggers Network, (hey I have to brag on my girl a little, okay?! *smile*) asked if I would write a post for her new blog series, Fabric Focus, so of course I said yes! 

Especially since Karen asked me to write a little about one of my favorite fabrics ~ linen!  If you've been reading here for any length of time, you know that I have two fabrics I love to sew...linen and wool crepe!  I'm kinda seasonal like that! *LOL*  

Anyway, hop on over to Karen's blog and read all about linen.  I hope that you'll find the post informative and worth referring to in the future.  I also hope that it will make you want to purchase a few yards and sew something up!

+ + + +

My niece's prom dress is up on the Mood Sewing Network.  I have pictures of her in the finished dress, taken at the piers in her hometown.  You can read all about it here.

+ + + +

I have to work tomorrow, so the sewing machines will be getting a well deserved rest this weekend.  I have no idea what I will be sewing next, so stay tuned!

...as always more later!

There and back again...

First things first...

The dress is done and delivered.  Delivered it Tuesday after work and it fit just fine. Shew! Since I had to cart it to her, the dress was a little wrinkled so she will have it pressed at the cleaners.  The prom is this evening and I will get final photos later because my daughter, the hairdresser, will do her hair.  The dress will be revealed on the Mood Sewing Network tomorrow.  Go on over there to see it, if you can't wait for it to be shown here.

As usual after a very involved project, I want to make something simple...and actually I will need to because I have limited time for the next couple of weekends.  I have to work one day this weekend.  Next weekend, I have a baby shower on Sunday and the following weekend, my Face Time sewing student will be here for an actual in-person sewing lesson.  See not a lot of sewing time.

I finally sat down and made a sewing list for spring/summer...which is funny since somehow we skipped spring and marched headlong into summer...cause it's gonna get hot here over the next couple of days!  First heatwave of the year.

After years of non-stop sewing, I have a great wardrobe for all seasons.  For the first time in a long time, I don't have this thing pushing me to sew faster to get a few more outfits made before the season ends.  I also have scaled back my fabric buying.  I can't believe that I've blown off all of the fabric sales  for Memorial Day...not one single yard was purchased.  Didn't y'all feel the earth shake when that happened? *LOL*

There is just so much goodness contained in the workshop that I want to use some of it.  Let me state plainly that I'm not feeling pressured or guilty, I just want to use some of the goodies I've collected.  Also included on my list of ten new outfits to be made over the next three months are seven new patterns.  This is a lot of new patterns for me but I want to enjoy the journey this summer.  I want to make some things I haven't done before.  I don't want to rush.  I want to take more than a weekend to finish a garment. I want to wallow.

The one thing this last project took from me was my peace.  Sewing is how I de-stress.  It allows me time to be creative and a calmness comes over me when I spend time doing that which is in direct contrast to my day job.  I loved that I made my niece the dress of her dreams.  However, it came at the cost of a couple of vacation days that I normally use as a refuge from the stresses of my day job.

So there's probably going to be a lot more "in-construction" posts around here especially since one of the patterns I'm planning on using is Vogue 7975.  I've had this jacket pattern since it was first issued in 2004.  There have been at least 50 of these jackets made on PatternReview.  

Please don't think I'm making one of those Chanel reproductions cause I ain't.  I'm in search of the perfect jacket to go over my sheath dress because as I've looked over list after sewing list that I've composed over the years, the jacket/dress combo appears again and again.  I buy enough fabric for the combo and I always start with the dress.  Then I get bored/excited/intrigued by another project and I move on...but the combo continues to appear on my lists.  

So this summer, I'm going to try V7975 in a couple of interesting pontes to see if I can get a good fit.  If I can, then I'm going to move onto some wool crepes for fall and hopefully I can get a TNT jacket.  A jacket that I can make from season to season.  It's now become a personal challenge.  I have to get this off my sewing list.  I've got to get a few in the wardrobe.  I'm probably going to bore the hell out of some of you and that's okay because you'll be going on vacation and you'll totally miss most of it! *LOL*  But hopefully, I will get a well fitted jacket that will enhance my bodacious body, make me look slimmer, more professional and work miracles in my wardrobe ~ and no I'm not talking about spanx! *LOL*

The only designer inspired garment on my summer list is the ponte Talbots dress.  I've hit most of the latest trends ~ bright colors - check; florals - check; embroidery/lace - check, check.  I just want to sew a few new patterns and while away the summer in my workroom since I have no vacation plans this year.

So I've been there and I'm headed back again...back to basics...back to calm & peacefulness...back to sewing for the pure pleasure and joy that it brings to my life.

...as always more later!

...and the saga continues...

Well I was right...*sigh*  My niece showed up today to take the dress home and as you can see from the photo below...

...it's still here.  The dress fits but it smushes her bosom.  It's just not flattering because the bodice is too small/too tight/too hard to get on.  After speaking with her, the measurement that was taken was her high bust measurement, not her actual bust measurement.  So of course the bodice is too tight.

The back looks good...

...and I need to add some more lace to the side.

So I will spend tomorrow adding a two inch gusset to the side seam and putting the dress back together to deliver to her on Tuesday after work.

A few things:

• I'm remarkably calm about the whole thing.  I know I can fix these issues.
• This means that all of the hand stitched lace on the front has to be removed and then stitched back on after the gusset has been added.
• The lining has been taken out and will be hand stitched in again.
• The hem needs a minor correction so that it will work for heels and when she wears flats.
• The sleeve fit is perfect!  I told you that was a dayum good sleeve! *LOL*
• ...and the back is perfect so it won't need to be reworked either.

If I'd been able to have a fitting yesterday, I would have been able to fix the dress yesterday & today delivering it tomorrow.  Instead I will spend tomorrow finishing it and will deliver it on Tuesday.  Thank goodness this is a three day weekend here in the States, so that I can take my time and get this last piece to work.

The awesome thing is that both she and her mother were apologizing to me. There was no hysteria about the dress showing up 2 days before her prom...just a lot of gratefulness that she was getting such an amazing dress...and other than the bust issue, she was really thrilled with the dress. At this point I'd make her wedding dress if she wanted because she has been so fantastic to work with.

...as always more later!